CC Flickr photo of Dragon's Blood Sedum Flower courtesy of galfred.

Dragon’s Blood Sedum (Sedum spurium, cultivar “Schorbuser Blut”) is a low perennial groundcover that grows as a dense mat and produces dazzling red to pink flowers in the summer and fall. The foliage is equally as showy as the flowers, beginning as small thick green leaves with red margins that turn to an impressive red by the fall. This sedum will create an interesting cascading effect in rock gardens or in containers. It acts as a semi-evergreen, so it will maintain some foliage throughout the year depending on where you live.

A nice thing about planting groundcovers in general is that they’ll help keep weeds down. You can easily keep this plant under control and keep it from encroaching on your other perennials as its roots won’t go too deep. Thus, it’s fairly easy to remove a clump here and there. Dragon’s Blood will grow to three to eight inches tall.

This sedum will grow best in zones 3 through 10 and should be planted in a mostly sunny spot. The more sun you give it, the brighter the flowers and leaves will be. As succulents, sedums like drier conditions and will do fine in loams, sandy or clay soils. Make sure the soil is well drained.

They also tolerate a high range of pH values, from around 3.7 to 7.3. This is an extremely hardy plant which requires minimal maintenance. It is also easy to transplant, so if you know someone who has it in their garden, ask them for a sample. You can transplant Dragon’s Blood pretty much any time during the growing season.

Dragon’s Blood works well in your garden and combines well with kaffir lilies or perennial flowers that are pink to red. This gorgeous photo from Cambridge University’s Botanic Garden will help give you an idea the effect this plant will have in your garden.

If you’re growing near the patio, look around for a great range of garden furniture sets to admire your new plants as they blossom.

Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

Basil is my favorite of all the herbs because it is so versatile and easy to grow. Those of you who follow my recipes site will know that I like to grow my own herbs and as basil is normally ready to eat just 6-weeks after planting I naturally use it often.

Basil is an attractive annual, about 18 inches (450 mm) tall with light-green, fairly broad leaves. There are several species of cultivated basil, one having purple leaves, so it is also a decorative plant in your garden.

Basil grows easily from seed planted after all danger of frost has passed. Pinch stems when the plant reaches 18 inches (450 mm) tall to promote bushy, compact growth. Avoid lush growth as it may reduce the flavor.

Green leaves can be picked about 6 weeks following planting. It is best to cut leaves for drying just before flowers open. However, if you can use fresh the taste is far better and it is also an extra vegetable to compliment a healthy diet.

Spicy-scented basil leaves are one of the most popular of all herbs used in cooking. There are two particular ways I like to use basil; the first, and most common, is to mix it with pine nuts and a little garlic, a splash of balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil in a blender to make Pesto. Pesto can be kept for a few days in the refrigerator. Use about 90% basil to 10% pine nuts.

The other way I like using basil is with freshly picked tomatoes, sliced, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkled with chopped basil. This dish can be served alone as an appetizer or as part of a salad.

The other great thing about basil is that you should grow one basil plant between each tomato plant in your garden. The plants compliment each other and the basil acts as a deterrent to many of the bugs that like tomato. It never fails to amaze me the way nature has a habit of making complimentary plants that together protect each other in growth and them compliment each other on the table.

Top chef’s use basil with all tomato dishes, whether cooked or raw. The other thing to remember about using olive oil is that it is an omega 3 oil and very good at promoting “good” cholesterol.

The Maidenhair Tree, more commonly known as the Ginkgo (the scientific name is Ginkgo biloba) is one of the most fascinating ornamental tree species you can plant in your landscape. Not only does this tree have an intriguing botanical history, it also makes for a beautiful and very hardy shade tree suitable for many parts of the U.S. First, let’s discuss this tree’s unique botanical features, and then we’ll move on to how you can plant and care for your Ginkgo tree.

The Ginkgo Biloba is a native of China, and has been particularly popular recently in the U.S. for its medicinal uses. The common name of “Maidenhair Tree” comes from the leaves’ resemblance to the Maidenhair Fern. You can find Ginkgo Biloba nowadays in almost every natural foods or vitamin store as a supplement to treat everything from Alzheimer’s disease to asthma.

Botanically, the Ginkgo is unique because it is the living link between ferns and conifers. Sakugoro Hirase discovered this fact in 1896. It is also a very ancient species, existing from the time of the dinosaurs. It’s hard to believe that the Ginkgo was only recently brought back from near extinction! The trees themselves can live to be hundreds of years old. Supposedly, the oldest Ginkgo is said to be about 3,500 years old and can be found in China.

The Ginkgo’s seed is protected by a fleshy seed coat, making it a gymnosperm, a term that means “naked seed.” Angiosperms are those flowering plants that have their seeds enclosed in a fruit. The Ginkgo is a dioecious tree. This means that separate trees produce the pollen and ovules for reproduction. Another amazing fact is that the cycads and the Ginkgo tree are the only living spermatophytes (seed producing plants) that have free swimming pollen (sperm).

Now that we’ve given you some historical and botanical background on this special tree species, let’s continue with how you can plant and care for a Ginkgo in your landscape.

One of the best things about the Ginkgo is it has very few pests and diseases. This fact probably contributed to its success as a species. So, as far as care and maintenance goes, you won’t really need to be on the lookout for problems related to pests or diseases. Additionally, the Ginkgo is a very strong tree and will seldom break during a storm event.

Now, when it comes to selecting a tree for your yard, be aware that a male tree is the way to go. The females produce a rather nasty-smelling fruit in the fall. Make sure you plant your tree in well-drained soil and give it plenty of water and fertilizer initially. Don’t be surprised if your tree grows very slowly at first, after a few years you should be noticing more advanced growth. As far as pruning goes, you may need to establish a central leader in the first few years, but in general that’s about all the pruning your tree will need. When your Ginkgo reaches maturity you can expect it to be around 75 to up to 100 feet tall with a spread of around 55 feet.

There have been volumes written about the Ginkgo, so make sure you take time to research more about this extraordinary tree. We recommend the following website to get you started:

The Ginkgo Pages http://www.xs4all.nl/~kwanten/

In my childhood neighborhood, there were several houses where Crabapple trees were prominently displayed. I have many pleasant memories of munching on the bittersweet fruit and climbing around on their branches. Walking around my old neighborhood produces strong impressions of the warm colors of the different types of Crabapples and of their fragrant blossoms. There is also something about this tree that brings up exotic images of the orient, and indeed, many varieties are of Asian origin.

There are literally hundreds of cultivars of Crabapple out there, many with exotic sounding names. For example, you might find in your nursery “Profusion,” “Red Splendor,” “Gloriosa,” or the “Manchurian”. There are cultivars with white, red, rose, and pink flowers, and a great diversity of fruits including dark red, bright red, green, orange and yellow. There are also some cultivars with purple foliage for an additional touch of color. With so many options, it will be hard to plant just one! You can contact The International Crabapple Society for more information about the selection of Crabapples out there.

Now that you’ve got an idea of the palette of colors you can work with, here are some important planting and maintenance guidelines to consider. Crabapples grown best in full sun, and will tolerate lots of different soil types. However, it’s important to have well drained soil with a decent amount of organic material mixed in. They grow well in hardiness zones 4 through 8A. They are not particularly drought tolerant and are not well suited for high pH soil. You may find that your Crabapple will sprout frequently from the roots so you’ll need to prune these down to maintain a nice shape. Pruning of the main branches is not necessary to have a strong tree.

Being aware of the Crabapple’s common pests and diseases will help you maintain a healthy and long-lasting tree. You’ll want to look out for aphids, fall webworms, borers and scales. Common diseases that affect the Crabapple are scab infection, fire blight, powdery mildew, cedar apple rust, and canker diseases. Overfertilizing your tree will increase disease problems. At your nursery, you can ask for disease resistant varieties including Mary Potter, Inglis, Ellwangeriana, Margaret, and Tomiko, among others.

Enjoy planting your Crabapple and the memories it will make. Don’t forget that the Crabapple makes excellent jellies!

If in the past Dutch Elm Disease has troubled your elm trees, this impressive and durable tree might be just what you’re looking for. The Japanese Zelkova (Zelkova serrata) comes from the elm family and has many of the same features as the America Elm. Additionally, you will rarely find a case of Dutch Elm Disease with your Zelkova tree.

While the America Elm has a unique splendor that can seldom be matched, the Japanese Zelkova will provide you with a large and hardy shade tree with an appealing symmetrical vase shape, a subtle peeling bark, and beautiful fall foliage, without the risk of Dutch Elm Disease. The Green Vase and Village Green cultivars most resemble the America Elm’s shape.

The Zelkova will reach heights up to 100 feet, with an average height between 55 to 80 feet. It will spread out to about 75 feet. Another notable feature of the Zelkova is its large trunk, which can grow up to four feet in diameter. If you’re familiar with the American Elm, you’ll notice that one of the main differences between these two trees is that the Zelkova generally has smaller branches and more of them than its cousin.

The Zelkova grows well in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8, and prefers to be in full sun. You don’t need to worry too much about the soil where you plant your tree, but the tree will do best if you’ve got a moist deep loam. This is not a fast growing tree, so you’ll need a little patience for it to achieve its full height. Once the tree is established, it will be resistant to drought, but until then it will need regular watering. During the time that you’re tree is growing you’ll also need to keep it regularly pruned for it to become a strong tree. Your tree will be moderately susceptible to breakage if not pruned corrected.

This brings us to an issue with the Zelkova that you should observe before you buy one for your landscaping. Many nurseries unfortunately do not have the proper training to give a young Zelkova the proper shape, leaving many branches clustered together on the trunk. Make an effort to look for a young tree with the branches spaced evenly along the trunk and make sure that the branches are considerably smaller in diameter than the trunk. Multiple trunks are common on this tree so make sure you avoid this problem before you buy and plant your tree. If you can’t initially find a tree with a single trunk and nicely spaced branches, you may want to check a couple other nurseries. After all, this is a lifetime investment!

While your Zelkova will be resistant to Dutch Elm Disease http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/trees/pp324w.htm, you’ll still want to look out for Elm leaf beetle and canker diseases. These problems aren’t as serious as Dutch Elm Disease, and you can avoid canker diseases by making sure your tree isn’t repeatedly wounded.

Enjoy your Zelkova and we hope you won’t be seeing Dutch Elm Disease again for a very long time!

The Honeylocust is a native of North America from the Leguminosae (Pea) family. It is a very popular tree for landscaping throughout the U.S. and grows well in large cities that may have issues with pollution and poor soils as it tolerates high pH, compacted and salty soils. It is also drought tolerant, making it a useful landscaping tree in desert areas. Honeylocust is a fast grower and can grow up to 70 feet high.

The native Honeylocust produces thorns along the trunk and some branches, making it less desirable for public and private landscaping. Thus, a thornless variety is available in most nurseries. Interestingly, the thornless Honeylocust is grow from cuttings taken from the upper branches of thorned Honeylocust.

The Honeylocust is most recognizable by its long dark brown bean-like pods that can remain on the tree long after the leaves have fallen off in winter. You can tell a Honeylocust is near as you’ll probably see a liberal amount of these pods scattered on the ground within close range of the tree. These pods can be a nuisance but if you consider that the leaves themselves are small and quickly disappear, this tree produces about the same amount of autumn cleanup as other species with a lot of leaf litter. Consider also that the seeds can be roasted and ground to make a coffee like drink. The leaves themselves are lanceolate and oblong and very small and create a nice filtered shade for your yard in the summer.

The Honeylocust has unfortunately been overplanted over the years which has made it more susceptible to disease. It’s a good idea to take a look around your area to see if there are a lot of them nearby in your surrounding parks, streetscapes and neighbors’ landscaping. If your area is inundated with Honeylocusts, it might be better to plant other trees suitable for urban areas to avoid insects and disease. This is particularly true in the Southern U.S. Ask your local nursery for advice for trees that are suitable for your region.

For pruning and maintenance, it really depends on what cultivar you pick from your nursery. Some have a central trunk and require less maintenance while others have several main trunks and need a bit more work during the first several years of growth. If you have trouble finding a tree with a central leader, you’ll want to train your tree to have a central trunk with the branches spaced out along the trunk and growing upright. The ‘Skyline’ cultivar is a reliable low maintenance selection.

As far as pests and diseases, you’ll want to watch out for the Mimosa webworm and pod gall midges, which appear as reddish galls on the tips of the branches. These are problems that have become more and more common with the Honeylocust. Spider mites, leafminers, and bagworms may also affect your tree. The ronectria canker is a disease that will damage the trunk and main parts of the tree and is fairly common. You can avoid most of these issues by regularly fertilizing your tree and cleaning up any excess leaf litter.

Check out the Trees of Reed College website for more information about this tree and others found on their campus.

There is a park just down the street from my house that has two large Japanese Pagoda trees planted among a collection of birch and evergreens. If you were strolling by this group of trees, you may overlook the Japanese Pagoda as just a common deciduous tree without any unusual features. Depending on the season, however, the Japanese Pagoda can put on a rather spectacular show. This website from the University of Connecticut http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/s/sopjap/sopjap1.html will give you a good idea what this tree has to offer.

In the spring, the tree has creamy yellow/white flower petals. It also maintains unusual yellow seed pods throughout most of the winter, providing a nice touch of color in a usually grey season. If you pay close attention to the seeds, you can tell the Japanese Pagoda is from the Leguminosae family, as the seed pods resemble beans. Another interesting feature of this tree is that the dried flowers can be boiled to make a yellowish dye. There are several unique cultivars available, including a weeping variety and a cultivar that will begin to bloom at an earlier age (“Regent”) than the regular cultivars.

Japanese Pagoda (Sophora japonica) is also known as the Scholar Tree. It will grow to about height of about 40 to 60 feet and has a spread of 30 to 45 feet. It is a fast grower and has a nice round canopy. This is a great tree for big cities as it tolerates heat, drought, and pollution.

With this tree you’ll need to be on the lookout for a few common pests and diseases, but once the tree is established, it will generally do fine. Potato leafhopper can be a threat as well as fungus cankers. It your area gets a sudden hard frost, your tree may be more susceptible to disease. Pruning out any damaged and dead branches will help your tree stay healthier. You may get a case of powdery mildew but this is rare and not very serious.

Plant this tree in a sunny place with well-drained soil. It will do best in zones 5 through 8. When you buy your tree from the nursery, make sure it has a single trunk, and as it grows, trim off other leaders that may appear. You may find that the branches tend to sag a bit. Prune the branches if your tree is planted in a place with lots of people traffic to avoid it being a disturbance. Fortunately, you will not have to worry too much about the roots lifting up sidewalks or other landscaping. The tree requires very little maintenance as the leaves are small and will blow away. The flowers may create stains if you have a patio or sidewalk nearby, so keep this in mind.

The Green Ash, from the Olive Family Oleaceae, has been an extremely popular tree due to its adaptability to a variety of conditions and soil types, and because it is very fast growing. It is also highly drought tolerant and a native to North America. You can find Green Ash planted virtually throughout the entire United States in public parks, streetscapes, business landscaping and private homes.

Green ash has an average life span of 100 to 120 years and will reach an average height of 50 feet (up to 80 feet in the case of the Newport), spreading out to about 40 feet with glossy dark green foliage. The foliage turns yellow in the fall, but the color is sometimes unpredictable and often duller in the southern part of the U.S.

There are several different varieties of Green Ash and when you go to the nursery you may be confronted with a choice between two common types, the Newport and the Marshall’s Seedless. Although both are attractive and popular, there are significant differences between the two that you should be aware of before you take your tree home.

In general the Marshall’s Seedless variety has been found to be a weaker tree and is susceptible to storm damage. However, good pruning will always minimize this risk. Additionally, the Marshall’s Seedless is seedless in name only. Recently, females can be found in the population and produce a large quantity of seeds which can be a nuisance to clean up.

For this and other reasons, you may want to consider the Newport as a less fragile and more attractive tree. The Newport has been found to be a sturdier tree and has a red tinted bark and reliable bright yellow fall foliage.

With that in mind, both types can cause problems with their surface roots uplifting sidewalks and other landscaping. However, if you plant them in well-drained looser soil, this will minimize problems. Placing root barriers around the periphery of the planting area helps move the roots down. This technique should also help the roots to be deep and that way you’ll have less maintenance worries.

Green Ashes in general require regular pruning, especially when young in order to develop a strong central trunk. Multiple leaders may develop from improper pruning and this weakens the tree. At the nursery, look out for trees that have been topped and have a more bushy appearance. These trees are weaker and won’t hold up well in a big storm. In the case of the Newport, topping will weaken an otherwise strong tree. At the nursery you need to look for a strong central leader and make sure that the branches of your tree are evenly spaced. If you find two big branches that are opposite each other, you can cut one to create a stronger tree.

As far as planting goes, both varieties are easy to transplant from the nursery or containers. They grow well in urban areas with salty, high pH, and compacted soils, but are not recommended for dense clays. Plant your tree in full sun.

Green Ash is susceptible to several types of pests and diseases, but keeping your tree healthy and free of pests and diseases is fairly easy. Here are some tips that apply to both types of trees.

Regular fertilizing is important, and if your tree seems to be disease prone a high nitrogen fertilizer may help. It’s also important to water more during drier periods. If you find that aphids have settled on your tree, not to worry as these are not considered a major threat to the health of the tree. Another concern is fall webworms that can nest and eat up the foliage. Prune the branches low to the ground where the nests appear as soon as you spot them. It’s also a good idea to also rake and dispose of fallen leaves that in any way look diseased.

With these basic ideas in mind, you should be enjoying a nice and healthy shade tree in no time!

Here are a few helpful sites with more information about the Green Ash:

Fraxinus pennsylvanica fact sheet

Green Ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica)S.D. Department of Agriculture

My first close look at the Pacific Madrone (Arbutus menziesii) was at Lithia Park in the town of Ashland, Oregon. Among the other beautiful trees of this well-known park, the Pacific Madrone was to me one of the most impressive. There is something truly magical about a dense stand of this broadleaf evergreen with its lovely red peeling bark. Since that time in Oregon, this tree has been one of my favorites. In addition to Lithia Park, Ashland’s graveyard has hundreds of Pacific Madrones scattered throughout the historic gravesites.

Pacific Madrone is a native of North America with its natural range from British Columbia to Southern California. You’ll typically find it in lower elevations in sunny and dry locations. It can reach up to 100 feet in height but is more commonly around 60 to 70 feet. The branches of this tree can twist and become quite sculptural. The leaves are dark green and shiny. Other features of this tree are its red berries and fragrant flower clusters. The berries are a strong temptation for wildlife and birds. Many birds also find this tree a comfortable place to nest. The fruit is edible for humans as well, but is not recommended to eat very many because it is said to cause stomach cramps. Pacific Madrone is a source of hardwood that provides a creamy sapwood and a pinkish to reddish heartwood. It can be quite durable and stiff and resists shock well. People have used the wood for making novelties, furniture, tool handles, flooring, and inlay ornaments, among other items.

Pacific Madrone likes well-drained soils and full sun, although it will tolerate partial shade. It can be difficult to transplant, so you’ll want to get a younger tree and be careful of the taproot when transplanting. Also, be aware that this tree is sensitive to pollutants, so you’ll want to plant it away from any source of contaminants. The peeling bark and occasional falling leaves require some degree of cleanup, so if you want a maintenance free tree, look elsewhere.

This site provided by the U.S. Forest Service has a lot of interesting facts and botanical info on the Pacific Madrone: Pacific Madrone Facts

In its native Mexico, the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) goes by the name of Noche Buena, which literally means, “the good night.” Noche Buena is actually how Spanish speakers refer to Christmas Eve. This is an appropriate name for this plant as it alludes to the time when it puts on its greatest show of color, and to the fact that it is often used as a decoration in Christmas celebrations. In Mexico, the poinsettia can grow to be a small tree, and is a perennial.

Here in the States, the plant owes its name to Joel R. Poinsett, who was a botanist and U.S. Ambassador to Mexico. He is responsible for introducing the plant to the U.S. around 1825. You more often than not see an abundance of poinsettias only during the Christmas season. However, if cared for correctly they can last well beyond spring.

Poinsettias put on a spectacular show of color through their bracts, or modified leaves. The flowers themselves are inconspicuous tiny yellow flowers found in the middle of the bracts. Poinsettias will typically maintain their colorful bracts until early spring. In my experience, the Poinsettia can be a challenge to care for after March or so. However, I’ve learned a few basic techniques to keep them healthy and strong long all year long.

One of the most important factors is your selection at the nursery. Regardless of what type of poinsettia you’re buying, yellowing or pale leaves are a sign that the plant has not been grown under the right conditions. If the leaves or bracts are brittle or falling off, don’t buy the plant.

In selecting the common red poinsettia from your local nursery, the plants with the darkest leaves are generally the healthiest plants. If you’re buying one of the other colors of poinsettia such as pink, the leaves are usually a little lighter. Also, make sure you pick plants with flowers that haven’t opened up yet. If you spot pollen on the small flowers, don’t buy these plants. Plants that have the flowers still closed up will last the longest.

The next thing to remember when you take you plant home from the nursery is that it is cold outside in December! Well, in most parts of the country. Regardless, you should protect you plant from the cold during transportation. Gently wrap the plant in a blanket between the nursery and the car.

Additionally, keep your poinsettia away from the cold once you get it home. Avoid cold drafts and don’t get your poinsettia too close to the window. Keep temperatures in your house around 70 degrees in the day and no lower than 60 at night. Place your plant in a spot where it gets plenty of sunlight, but not intense, direct sun. About six to seven hours a day will do. Filtered light is the best.

Next, inspect the container for proper drainage. Poinsettias need plenty of water, but if kept too wet, they can suffer from rot or fungus that attack the roots, so punch additional holes in the container or decorative wrapping if necessary. Water frequently, when the soil begins to feel dry to the touch. Make sure the plant does not sit in standing water. If you have a tray at the bottom of the plant, remove the water frequently.

During the time you have your poinsettia, you should be on the lookout for common pests that attack this plant. Whiteflies are a frequent problem. Simply dilute a little Castille soap with water and spray off the flies. Mealy bugs may also cause trouble and can be treated with rubbing alcohol applied with a Q-tip.

After Christmas has past, you can start preparing your poinsettia for the spring and summer months. Although there is no need to fertilize your plant during Christmas, you can begin to fertilize in the early spring with a fertilizer that has a good balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Once to twice a month is recommended. Also, consider using a high quality organic fertilizer or a compost tea.

Around March, pick off the bracts and any dead leaves. It is also a good idea to transplant your poinsettia into a larger container around this time. Next, prune back your plant around June through August. Look for any particularly long branches to prune back. You can consider training your plant into various shapes as well.

As you approach the cooler fall months, you’ll need to begin to isolate you plant in total darkness to encourage reflowering. The last week of September, move your plants to a part of your house that can remain dark for 14 hours a day. Be very careful not to let any natural or artificial light enter the room. Keep the temperature around 65 degrees and no lower than 60 degrees. Water infrequently when the soil begins to feel dry. By early November, you should start to see new bracts appearing, just in time for Christmas.

For more information on the poinsettia, see this great site from The University of Minnesota Extension Service.